If you live in an area susceptible to freezing, and you use your RV only from spring through fall, you will likely want to winterize your RV. Doing so will keep the water in the pipes, pump, and water fittings from freezing, preventing damage requiring expensive repairs. Many people do not feel comfortable winterizing their own RV, so it’s helpful that most RV service departments offer this service. This service can typically range anywhere from $150-300 depending on the company or technician who is doing the winterization. However, if you would like a challenge and want to perform the winterization yourself, then you have come to the right place!

In order to winterize your RV you will need:

Materials and tools required for RV winterization
Materials and tools required for RV winterization
  • Power to the RV to run the water pump
  • A 1-1/16” socket and ratchet (to remove the water heater anode rod)
  • A Phillips screwdriver (to remove the panel to the water pump)
  • A flat blade screwdriver (for removing the city water supply screen and pressing in the one way valve)
  •  A winterizing kit (it is possible your RV was equipped with one of these) 
  • Pink RV-specific antifreeze (2-3 gallons for travel trailers and Class B RVs; 3-5 gallons for Class A, Class C, and 5th wheel RVs)

Step One:

The first thing to do when winterizing your RV is to make sure that all of the holding tanks are completely empty.

Freshwater low point drain on an RV with ball valve on the end
Freshwater low point drain with ball valve on the end

In order to accomplish this, open the low point drains underneath the RV. (These usually either have small ball valves installed at the ends or are capped with threaded removable caps.) This will allow the water to drain out of the freshwater holding tank and the water supply plumbing. Close the valves or reinstall the caps once all of the water has drained out. The winterization process will fill all of the water supply plumbing and fixtures as well as the P traps in the RV with antifreeze. Some antifreeze will most likely end up in the gray and blackwater holding tanks. The antifreeze will not do damage to the black and gray water holding tanks. The freshwater holding tank should be completely drained so that there will be no freezing that can occur.

Step Two:

Next, bypass the RV water heater. The water heater plumbing typically has three valves you will need to access.

An RV water heater in by pass mode for winterization
Water heater in by pass mode for winterization

Close the two valves that allow water to flow into and out of the water heater, then open the valve that connects the hot water line and the cold water line so that antifreeze will be able to flow into the hot water lines in the RV as they supply the various water fittings in the RV.

Step Three:

You will also need to drain the water heater, which is done mostly outside the RV.

Gloved hand pointing at an RV TPV (temperature, pressure relief valve) on a tank water heater
Finger pointing at RV TPV (temperature, pressure valve)

Open the panel that covers the water heater and note the Temperature, Pressure, Relief valve (TPV) that has a flat lever on it. After confirming that the water heater is OFF and has had ample time for the water to cool to a temperature that will not burn you, open this lever and allow all the water to drain out. Once the water has completely drained, close the lever on the  TPV.

Step Four:

Next, locate the anode rod, usually located at the lowest point of the water heater. Using the 1-1/16” socket and ratchet, loosen the anode nut.

Be sure and stand wide of this area as water will come out with some force. Once the water flow has slowed or stopped, remove the anode rod from the water heater and inspect it.

An RV water heater anode rod being removed and water draining out of the water heater tank
Water heater anode rod being removed and water draining out

Because the anode rod is designed to attract and collect minerals and bacteria that could otherwise break down the water heater tank, over time it will erode and eventually it will be unable to do its job effectively.

An RV water heater anode rod that is nearly completely eroded and in need of replacement
Water heater anode rod that is nearly completely eroded

If you see that significant erosion has occurred, immediately replace the rod with a new one. If it is still in good condition and able to do its job properly, immediately reinstall it. This is so you will not accidentally forget to install the rod later in the winterization process.

Step Five:

The next step in winterizing your RV involves the water pump, which can be hard to locate. Since RVs are designed differently in nearly every aspect, it would be helpful to do some research before blindly trying to find the pump. Often the location is indicated in the RV owners manual, but if not, you can usually find it via an internet search for your RV’s specific make and model.

An RV water pump location underneath the refrigerator with the access panel removed and the RV control board in front of it
Water pump location underneath the refrigerator with the access panel removed

Water pumps are usually behind an access panel that can be removed so the pump can be serviced or used for winterization.

An RV access panel underneath the refrigerator, secured by Philips screws
Access panel underneath the refrigerator, secured by Philips screws

This panel is normally held in place with Phillips screws that you will need to remove in order to gain access to the water pump. Once you have located the water pump, you will need to determine if there is a winterization kit that has already been installed or if you will need to purchase one. Winterization kits for the water pump usually have a shutoff valve leading to a disconnected portion of hose. Sometimes that hose end is also capped. If you find your water pump and can see one water line going into the pump and one water line leaving the pump with no ability to allow the pump to pull from a different liquid source, you most likely will need to purchase and install a winterization kit. 

Step Six:

In order to distribute the antifreeze throughout the RV plumbing and onto the fixtures, open the hose that you previously turned off with the shut off valve and/or capped and insert it into one of the gallon bottles of antifreeze. If the RV has a valve on the winterization kit, open the valve in order for the antifreeze to be pulled into the pump. It is a good idea to start at one end of the RV and move systematically through the RV until all of the water fixtures have been run. I like to start at the rear of the RV and work forward.

RV toilet filling with antifreeze for the winterization process
RV toilet filling with antifreeze

Starting with the toilet, (for example, hold the toilet flush pedal down just enough to allow liquid to start filling the toilet bowl but not enough so that the liquid falls into the black water holding tank. Continue holding the flush pedal down until you see pink antifreeze begin flowing from the toilet sprayer. If some antifreeze makes it into the black water holding tank, it will not do any damage to the holding tank. Once you have several ounces of pink antifreeze in the toilet, you can move onto the shower or bathroom sink.

RV bathroom sink hot water valve allowing antifreeze to flow for winterization process
RV sink hot water valve allowing antifreeze to flow

Run the hot water faucet and then the cold water faucets (one at a time) until you see pink antifreeze flowing from the faucet. It is easier to keep track of whether or not you have replaced the water in the lines with antifreeze if you do the hot and cold water valves separately. This is important because if water is left in any of the water lines in the RV and if a freeze were to occur, there is a high likelihood that the water will expand and break either the plumbing or the fixture.

As you move from each water source to the next, keep an eye on the level of the antifreeze. As one bottle empties, switch it out with a fresh bottle. The amount of antifreeze you need will depend on the number of water fixtures in the RV as well as the size of the RV.

An RV outdoor shower and wet bay that has been winterized
Outdoor shower that has been winterized

Once you have worked your way through the interior of the RV and flushed out all of the water in the lines with antifreeze, do the same process again for any outdoor showers or sinks. While you are outside, go to the garden hose fitting that is used to connect the RV to a city water source.

City water garden hose connection on an RV with screen still installed
City water garden hose connection with screen still installed

There is usually a mesh screen that you will need to remove from the garden hose fitting using a small flat blade screwdriver. Next, depress the one-way valve that prevents water from flowing backwards out of the RV until you see pink antifreeze. Reinstall the screen to cover the backflow preventer and repeat this process on any other city water supply connections on the RV. 

Step Seven (If Applicable):

If you have any onboard appliances that require water supplied by the RV, these will also need to be winterized. This can include but is not limited to clothes washers, dishwashers, and refrigerators with ice makers. Refer to the appliance manufacturer instructions for how to winterize these. 

Step Eight:

At this point, most if not all of the water fixtures have been winterized. The final parts that will need to be winterized will be all of the P-traps. Many sinks and showers have P-traps that hold water as a vapor barrier to keep odors from the gray water from entering your RV.

Clear p trap under an RV bathroom sink after antifreeze has been added
Clear p trap under bathroom sink after antifreeze has been added

Add antifreeze to these P-traps by pouring a cup of antifreeze down each of the drains.  Or you can accomplish the same thing by running each of the sinks or showers for an additional 10 seconds after the water has been replaced by antifreeze and allowing the antifreeze to run down the drain. Keep in mind that you will likely use a lot more antifreeze with this second method.

Step Nine:

Upon completion of the winterization of the RV, make sure to replace any caps that you removed from the winterization kit and/or return any valves that allow the pump to pull liquid from a different source. Also be sure to leave the valves that bypass the water heater in winterization mode.) And finally, reinstall any panels that you removed to access the water pump. This will make de-winterizing your RV much easier when it is time to remove it from storage. 

Congratulations! You have successfully winterized your RV!

Important: Improperly winterizing your RV can lead to damage and expensive repairs. This guide is meant to be an overview and companion that can be used by experienced RVers. If you don’t feel confident that you are able to sufficiently winterize your RV yourself, seek professional help.

 

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